In the latest issue of Threads Magazine there was a hint about making patterns from see through vinyl that is used to cover tables. After a little shopping I selected the cheapest vinyl at JoAnn’s and started my experiment. It wasn’t labeled as a table cover, just vinyl. Great timing as I was about to trace a pattern from a pair of Dockers pants that fit me and I wanted a pattern I could use.

It is best to lay the vinyl on top of the pattern or garment you are tracing as the vinyl sticks and hold down the garment or pattern. I used a black Sharpie Ultra fine point to trace on the vinyl. It stayed on the vinyl without smearing. I also tried Sharpie in different colors and all smeared. In fact the Sharpie black Ultra Fine was that only marker that worked without smearing. Just check that your marker doesn’t smear before tracking.

When cutting out your pattern don’t cut on the black lines. Cut close but don’t cut them off. Your vinyl pattern will be hard to see if the black lines are gone.

I like to roll the vinyl pattern up rather than fold. When it’s time to use again there’s no need to iron. Just smooth it over your fabric and it clings to the fabric.

In anyone find a color marker or pen that doesn’t smear I would love to know. It would be nice to mark different areas different colors especially where you added to the pattern for fitting etc.

Happy Sewing
Nana

For more information contact:
Judy Dunkin [SewItsMe@mchsi.com]
Beth Van Hove [smigg1@yahoo.com]
Pamela Gainor [gainorpb@mchsi.com]

After joining the national group you may join any local group. There are no local dues only national. National dues are $50 for the first year and $45 for the next year. You can also be a member at large.

Sew Happy
SewNana

This interesting little foot works quite well on binding quilts. A new type of foot where the bottom edges are not level. This helps when the fabrics you are sewing aren’t the same height. I am using it for binding quilts although there must be many other uses.

When I first tried this foot, I thought it was backwards but of course, it was just me. It is designed to allow the bulk of the quilt to be on the left side of the machine.

The two quilts that I bound with this foot are going to be used a lot and needed a strong edge. Not being sure of my sewing skills, I sewed the binding to the wrong side and then wrapped it to the right side, where I could see I was sewing in the correct spot.

My first quilt, was a double side baby blanket, one side flannel and one side cotton fabric without any batting. I sewed the binding to the wrong side and brought the binding to the top side and sewed in place. Did the back look as good as the front? No, but it wasn’t to bad. If you are off it’s important to use a thread color to match your backing. The second one was good on both sides.

I was happy with the second quilt as the front looked as good as the back. I made sure the binding brought to the top side just covered the seam where the binding was attached to the back. I did miter the corners and hand tack the corners before I stitched. Below is a picture (taken after the quilt was finished) and you can see that one side of the foot is higher than the other.

The last picture shows both side of the quilt which look the the same of both side.

For Creative Vision Users: The 6.2 menu for specialty feet has lots of stitches that work with this foot. I used the 6.2.1 but I think next time I will adjust the stitch or select another one.

It helps to sew on the edge of the binding, not the quilt as that will make the back and front of the quilt match. This isn’t for heirloom quilts but it will work for everyday quilts that will get a lot of use. Please post if you have thoughts about this foot.

Happy Sewing (Hi Son)
SewNana

We have one on the CV, although I must admit I have used this machine for quite a while and didn’t know it was there. I will try and explain.

The first picture shows a straight stitch with the width button on the left and the length button on the right. We know on a straight stitch, then if we change the width button, we are moving the needle position, as there isn’t any width to a straight stitch.

Picture #2 shows the zig zag stitch 1.1.5 at it’s default size. We also know we can change the width by using the left hand button.

But now look at picture #3. It shows the same stitch, same size but it’s position has changed. The stitch will sew closer to the right, as the stitch has been moved closed to the right which will sew closer to the right edge of the pressure foot. Look closely and you can see that the width button is pushed in and now shows a different icon. So by touching and toggling back and forth on decorative stitches, we have the option to not only change the width but also where it stitches. How fun………

Maybe we have more of these but I’m not sure. Help anyone?

It’s Sunday night and my son may be checking to see if I am posting to this site so I must hurry and get something going.

Oh yes, Happy Sewing, and Carl enjoyed watching the race last night.
SewNana

For their first video the girls show us how to make pincushions. They are made of felt but the last layer can be covered with fabric. Way to go girls….

Taking this concept to another level, we could adapt this idea to make fun items with children.  Not decorating  pins of course,  maybe magnets.  I’m sure you can think of ideas.  Let me know.

To do this technique, you will be making a tuck above the hem and sewing the tuck right above the hem that was on the original garment. The tuck is folded into the sleeve and checked to see if the new length is correct.

Baste the tuck together being careful  to only baste the tuck.  If you are fearless you can try just pinning. 

Sew The Tuck

Trim the fabric that you have tucked and finish the raw edges.  If it is a knit,it isn’t necessary to finish the raw edge.

Final Hem

The original hem is the still there.  That is the stitching that is visible.  It is a cover stitch but part of the sleeve blocks the view

.